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Posted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 6:33 pm 
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I was asked to put down a few words about finding a reasonable value for a reel. Most of this will be familiar to many of you and I ask that those that have additional useful adds jump in with their comments!

First...and not addressed in detail here...condition has a tremendous influence, so you have to factor that in heavily when putting a price on your own reel and for judging the relevance of a value seen at auction or in some sales list. Also, for the most part, collector books are great for pics and details, but are generally out of date re values... or have posted values designed to raise the value of the collection of the author...this may be done for tax or insurance purposes, so don't read more into this comment.

The main way to tell value is to determine WHAT SOMEONE WILL PAY...I know...brilliant, John...but that's what it boils down to...so, the only way to get a good idea is to judge what things have been selling for. The sites I use are Ebay, Langs and other auction sources.

For EBAY, the relevant way is to look at COMPLETED auctions. you can get there by going to the advanced search...put in your search subject and click the "completed auctions only" button...YOU HAVE TO BE LOGGED IN TO USE THIS FEATURE. As most of you know there is quite a bit of messing about that goes on with ebay auctions, so you need to first make sure the values are shown in green, meaning they sold...items in red did not sell and the $ just reflect the seller's hope for what they would get. Also, look at as many examples as possible and try to evaluate why the bidding was high or low. Ask questions like how many bids were there? If one, then it was possibly a s--- bid to establish auction as "active", based on the seller's opening bid. I always question whether these really sold or not. I'm sure others will have thoughts about this. Needless to say, if there are not at least two bidders, it's less than clear what the $ value means as to real value, MHO. i'll leave this for now, since I'm sure we can do a couple pages on Ebay auctions. At the end of the day, if there are a few examples of your reel, you can get a pretty good idea of what people are willing to pay in real-time.

For the other auctions, the most useful source I've found (first given to me by member Richard Thomann...thanks, Bugman!) is a site called liveauctioneers.com. The site is here:

http://www.liveauctioneers.com/all-live-auctions

you can put your reel in the search window and go look to see what has been offered, but to see the realized prices, YOU HAVE TO REGISTER. Good news is that it is a dead simple registration and does not require much info and no fee.

Once you've done this, you put your reel name in the search window and hit the search button and it will go search both active and "sold" auctions and leave you on this page:

http://www.liveauctioneers.com/search?q=ardive&org=yes

It defaults to "live" auctions, so you just click on that "sold" button and it will bring up the ones that have sold over the last 5 or so years. Now, you can browse to find the best match for your particular model, vintage, and condition. When looking at final values, remember it's an auction and things can both get out of hand and also fall between the cracks, so look at as many as you can...also keep in mind that something that sold for $x in 2005 may be 30% over price that you can realize today. Also, don't forget to add in the fees to the final value. For Langs, where we find most of our stuff, a goose of 20% will get you close to the actual amount paid after fees and shipping.

that's about all I can think of to add at the moment. I hope this is a help!


Posted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 8:09 pm 
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You can reshuffle how the listings appear by clicking on the ending soonest tab and picking Highest first, which will redo the order of highest value first to lowest. As John pointed out look for green as that says the item sold, now look for one that is closest to the condition of your reel or item and then look at the bidder's, if several than I count it as real value, if only two bidder's it's either two friends pushing up the value of an item or two bidder's in a who wins contest. This Zebco just sold (300619582005) it had 13 bids and ended at $128.xx, it was one of the reels that I did the 202 article on. I know the bidder's and the auction was real and the reel did sell for the amount shown. The winner even sent me a note and said his max amount was 200.00 he didn't have to use it all. You can also check when the last bids came into an auction. If in the last seconds of a sale, most likely they are all real bids. I don't use a snippit program but if I really want something I will not bid with more than 2 or 3 seconds left in the sale to hopefully win an item with a high enough amount to get the job done.


Posted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 8:11 pm 
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Thanks John for the info, I signed up! it was easy. did some checking again it was easy. How I have a second sourse to check values online.


Posted: Thu May 31, 2012 10:19 am 
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As in all things, use wisdom. I recently sold a Zebco 44 in chrome for around $100 offline. If I had used Ebay I would have seen a similar one sell for over $400! It seemed suspicious so I did some investigation and found out some things that made me believe there COULD have been some shill bidding. I did not base the value of mine on that number but on a realistic number of the others listed. Beware of too good to be true situations is all I am saying.


Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2012 2:58 am 
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Maybe asking for info on ORCA's website is your best chance at an honest answer. Find an honest Mentor.
Ignoring John Elder's or Dick Braun's advice might be a mistake.

I know most of us buy and sell occasionally...but appraisals from full time dealers might be biased.


Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 12:04 pm 
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Great post John. I'd say there's very good advice given here. Thanks


Posted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 12:41 am 
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Just an update to John's advice...

Ebay now has a SOLD listings option that will eliminate the completed but not sold items from a search... that is, the ones in red.


Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2016 3:08 pm 
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I bought a 1940 Penn senator 16/0 it came with a vintage 130 pound class rod the reel looks it was used maybe twice does any one know what it is worth


Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2016 3:59 pm 
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Bruce m,

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Vintage-Big- ... true&rt=nc
Did you see this Ebay Item?

Is your reel a 1940 model , 40's or 40 ish ? The first generation 16/0 is quite rare and worth 2-3 times that of a late 40's early 50's reel . If you don't know how to recognise a first generation , the handle on the head plate is in the 5 o'clock position. Second generation handle is in the 7 o'clock position. If in doubt put up a photo and we will advise.

Ray


Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2016 5:17 pm 
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It's a 5 o'clock handle I had people look at it and confirmed that but I could not get a price out of them all I kept getting was do you want to sell it


Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2016 5:28 pm 
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now is when your homework starts, go to ebay Penn 16/0 sold and then rearrange the list from ended soonest to highest first find a like early 16/0 that is the same condition and see what it or they sold for and you'll have a fair idea what it's worth.


Posted: Mon Oct 03, 2016 1:55 am 
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Bruce m,

Email some photos to me and I will value it and supply some research .

Ray


Posted: Mon Oct 03, 2016 2:41 am 
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Bruce m------------------listen to the Kingfisher. If your reel is a first gen 16/0, your research is going to be very difficult because only three of these reels have ever been found. They are very rare!

Kingfisher is one of the proud few that owns a first gen 16/0. He will send you on the right path.. The Kingfisher is one of the good guys!!! :D


Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2016 4:55 pm 
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Hi I'm looking to talk to kingfisher I just bought three penn senators 16/0s they are all in really good shape no greening on them the best part I paid only 300 each my problem is I can't get a exect year of them they all have white handles with metal end caps I called penn they can't give me a exect year if you can blieve it I can use some help thanks bruce


Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2016 5:26 pm 
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Ray's email is availabl by clicking on his username. If you post up some photos, some of us may be able to help you out as well.

John


Posted: Fri Nov 11, 2016 5:02 am 
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Image

Image

Hello Bruce M,
I have attached photos of a NOS 16/0 with the white handle. You could also get them with the black handle. I believe this style handle is the last of the 16/0's . They never went to an alloy spool like the 14/0 They just stopped making them. You bought yours at around half price . I will check with the Penn catalogs for a time frame . It would be impossible to give an exact year without a dated receipt as this style would have been available for many years ( At a guess).

Ray


Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2016 3:05 am 
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These white handles with the metal tips are fairly limited. They were only used in 1985 and 1986. In 1987 Penn continued this style handle but changed the color to black and it stayed that way until the end of production of the model.


Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2016 3:24 am 
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Mike,

Thanks for the enlightenment. I guessed incorrectly they had been around for longer.

Ray


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