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Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 12:30 pm 
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Wanted: Bakelite spacer for 1912 Shakes Professional or suitable parts reel



Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 12:44 pm 
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It is hard rubber. They have all shrunk now and usually crack as they shrink and pull on the screws. The ones that did not crack are often rubbing on the spool flange now.
-steve


Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 12:56 pm 
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Thanks for the head’s up. So if I can’t find one intact I could possibly reconstruct with grind from a rubber sided donor reel. It is only for a collector’s shelf. Perfect fit for smooth operation is not required.


Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2018 7:44 am 
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Hmmm, I wonder if they messed up the hard rubber formula at Shakespeare for awhile, we see all kinds of HR in reels that is more exposed to the elements than is the spacer in this reel without similar damage....


Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2018 1:45 pm 
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I will get my hands on it in a few weeks to clean it for the owner. I imagine it was dropped. Otherwise it looks like a nice reel.


Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2018 5:36 am 
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You're probably right Sid. They varied the amount of sulfur added to the hard rubber and different amounts of sulfur gave the stuff different characteristics in terms of impact resistance and rigidity. Then again, it could be because the Shakes spacer is only about a quarter inch wide and a quarter inch thick in some places.

Another weird thing is that the hard rubber side plates from JVH (and probably others) tend to turn brown with age. They are brown on the outside where exposed to light, but also brown on the inside and even brown under the metal strap on a cross reel. The Shakespeare spacers do not tend to turn brown so much and most have remained completely black (but have broken). Some hard rubber smoking pipe stems developed a very thin skin of brownish black but others have remained completely black. Also, hard rubber pipe stems tend to shrink so they no longer fit tightly into the wooden bowl.

They called hard rubber Ebonite because it is supposed to be as black as ebony wood.
-steve


Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2018 8:36 am 
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oc1 wrote:Another weird thing is that the hard rubber side plates from JVH (and probably others) tend to turn brown with age. They are brown on the outside where exposed to light, but also brown on the inside and even brown under the metal strap on a cross reel.
-steve

In my experience, those areas of the HR not exposed to UV light remain dark and probably appear very similar to the way they left the factory. That's one of the things I use to determine how far to take a restoration, assuming the inner unexposed surfaces are mostly original. You can also turn the HR the same brown color by putting it in hot water (don't ask me how I know).

In the vulcanization process the sulfur bridges between polymer chains and the more bridges between adjacent chains the harder (and more brittle) the rubber becomes (Goodyear patent). I can only imagine how guys like the vom Hofes must have smelled at the end of a long day in the plant, that sulfur smell sticks to clothes very well.


Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2018 11:27 am 
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Wow, it sure seems like it would make more sense (and certainly easier) to find a suitable parts reel. That way, you might also find the correct handle and oil caps.
Mark


Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2018 11:10 pm 
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Paul,
If the master (Dr. Elder) were doing that restoration he would more than likely head down to the local Goodwill or flea market, pick himself up an old black bowling ball (brand name Ebonite), slice off a slab on his bandsaw and proceed to mill an appropriate spacer to fit. I've seen his work :cool , there's not much that man can't accomplish. :bow:


Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2018 8:32 am 
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Gosh, Tommy! Thanks for the pats, but that's a toughie and I gave up on slicing bowling balls...too hard on band saw blades and potentially on me!
Mark has a good idea re parts reel but problem is that most of those also will be riddled with cracks and come apart when disassembled. Pieces can be super-glued back together and I've done that.
I have also made a mold and formed a replacement using epoxy/rubber dust mix, then worked to shape with filing and sanding.
Paul, your idea of cutting from an existing side plate is a good solution as well, if you can find a sacrificial plate with enough HR to do it.

Let us know how it comes out and of course, you are welcome to send along. However, your skills are certainly up to the task!

John


Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2018 11:52 am 
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Maybe a new approach? I am thinking Hockey Puck. Probably too soft but once it is ground up and potted in epoxy it will become hard black rubber and there are lots of (scrap) pucks available in my neighbourhood.


Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2018 5:42 pm 
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Forgot about that discovery! Yes, hockey pucks... get the oldest ones you can find... they are harder than you might think!


Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2018 11:49 pm 
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I just checked the local online market for used hockey pucks. By the hundred lot, new ones are selling about US$1 each and used $0.36 each. One will probably last me a lifetime LOL.


Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 12:10 am 
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I'd send you a couple, Paul, but postage would cost more than to buy 'em.! I bought a bag of 15 at a thrift store for 5 bucks. I drilled and mounted one on the lathe to turn and made a " wafer about 1/4" thick, but have had no time to do anything with it! However, it cut nicely and there's hope it will serve as a decent source of HR.


Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 5:58 am 
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Here ya go. Here's a reel for parts.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Early-Shakespe ... SwBmlacSfO


Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 9:18 am 
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Paul M
PM me, I believe I have a half dozen new ones.
Thanks Ed


Posted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 8:49 pm 
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Paul
I couldn't load pictures into the PM. So I put them here.[img][/img]
[img]

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LOL I have no idea what I am doing. Lets see if this works


Posted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 9:02 pm 
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Ed:
Looks perfect to me. Thank you so much! You da man!


Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 4:32 pm 
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Ed:

Thanks again. I went to install the spacer and found it is a slightly different model than the smaller one in this reel. There is only a 0.2" difference in the diameter and I could just grind the circumference... but then the through-holes won't fit and there is a risk of the remaining material being too thin in places and also it won't be a proper restoration. I actually got a Shakes Ideal of that era on the weekend and that spacer is also 0.2" too large. Since I am not in a rush to grind and make a mistake, I will wait a bit longer to see if a wide spacer with 2.0" diameter becomes available.


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