Precisionbilt Mosquito and Silver Moth Spool Removal

You got 'em, we know how to clean 'em
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Carl Corey
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Precisionbilt Mosquito and Silver Moth Spool Removal

Post by Carl Corey »

I was thinking of submitting this to The Reel News, but figure it will be of more use here on the board for others to review as needed. Also have some pics, but can't run them down at the moment. Hopefully this will be self explanatory if anyone is somewhat familiar with these reels.

How to get the spool off of the Mosquito and Silver Moth –

This should be easy – “As your Silver Moth Reel has the exclusive Precisionbilt quick take-apart feature, it can easily be disassembled for cleaning or for removing spools without the use of tools or coins” (Silver Moth Box Paper). OK, I have only had one Mosquito or Silver Moth (out of a dozen or so) work this easy, but there is a clue here that bears remembering – no tools or coins SHOULD be needed. The box paper goes on to provide directions The directions state:

"First disengage click and release drag. Hold crank knob and housing in palm of one hand. Press against spool with thumb and first two fingers of other hand and turn in a counterclockwise direction until completely unscrewed. Now, the shaft assembly will lift right out of the housing for cleaning or oiling."

Yeah, right. What usually happens if you try it this way is that the screw holding the clear plastic cover turns with the cover and it comes off of the arbor/spindle exposing the ratchet and clutch assembly and providing a great opportunity to lose the one or two thin washers covering the ratchet and clutch assembly. If you are real careless, that little steel cylinder that fits against the teeny spring steel piece can disappear too – then you are up the creek – no more ratchet function for this reel. Of course, since there is a slot in the screw holding the cover on – some of us figure that turning that is what we are supposed to do – but remember – no tools or coins needed. From reviewing Reel Talk, this is the point where most of us oil everything up and put it back together for better or worse.

The Reel Solution - Assuming you are at the above point - with the exposed rachet and clutch assembly – now you DO need some tools. You’ll need a pair of small angled needle-nosed pliers, some PB Blaster (WD-40 might work too) and a 10mm open-end wrench.

Step 1 – take out the little steel cylinder (that should be “loose” between the ratchet gear and the clutch/arbor with the pliers and put somewhere safe. Be careful, just left of it is that teeny spring steel piece which should be sticking out from the clutch/ arbor housing. If the teeny spring steel piece isn’t there or you crush/break it, you are also likely up a creek.
Step 2 – remove the ratchet gear from the reel and place it aside with the teeth up, as the ridge part behind the teeth is to go down against the reel body to meet up with the drag arms. Most of the time the ratchet gear is fairly loose, but if necessary add some blaster and work it off.
Step 3 – As the spindle/arbor screws into the spool on the far side of the reel (close to the outside of the spool), it’s time to get some blaster in and around and down inside along the spindle/arbor if you can. Might not take much or none at all, but since the spindle/arbor is “stuck” to the spool way in there, even a bit can’t hurt.
Step 4 – take the 10mm open end wrench and lay across about the top half of the spindle/arbor – making sure you are above the teeny spring steel piece. Caution is needed, as you don’t want to smash, break or bend the spring. Hold the spool steady with one hand and the other hand to turn the spindle/arbor counterclockwise with the wrench. This should result in the spool coming off of the spindle/arbor and out of the reel casing.
Step 5 – clean, oil (the spool and spindle/arbor) and reassemble the reel in reverse order. I wouldn’t oil the top where the little steel cylinder is, the washers, or the screw holding the cover on. The theory is that as long as you can keep the spindle/arbor oiled where it goes into the spool – and that the spool isn’t cranked too hard onto the spindle/arbor – then when you hold the handle cover and turn the spool counterclockwise with the other hand – the spool comes off and the cover comes off with the spindle/ arbor and ratchet/clutch attached. That’s how they show it in the box paper – it all stays in one piece. Theory is good, but it doesn’t always work that way.

That's it.

Anyone out there have a Precisionbilt Ensenada or Key West Salt Water reel they would part with? Carl
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Ron Mc
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Re: Precisionbilt Mosquito and Silver Moth Spool Removal

Post by Ron Mc »

I've rebuilt a couple of these
Image

Image

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The clear plastic winding plate on these is often hazed so that it is no longer transparent.
Wax is the answer - plain old Butcher's bowling alley wax.
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john elder
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Re: Precisionbilt Mosquito and Silver Moth Spool Removal

Post by john elder »

Now, that's a great tip! will have to give that a try...thanks, Ron!
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Jonathan P. Kring
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Re: Precisionbilt Mosquito and Silver Moth Spool Removal

Post by Jonathan P. Kring »

Are internal parts for The Silver Moth available for purchase anywhere?
keebranch
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Re: Precisionbilt Mosquito and Silver Moth Spool Removal

Post by keebranch »

Ron,
That's a good solution on the clear plastic cover. I wonder if the bowling alley wax might work on hazed car head lamps? the clear head light covers on my Nissan Murano are starting to go, and I need a solution soon.

Les
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Kelly L
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Re: Precisionbilt Mosquito and Silver Moth Spool Removal

Post by Kelly L »

Blue Magic makes a Headlight Lens Restorer, I've used that on my old truck head lamps, it works good. There may be a better one out there, but I have used that one with success, it did help. I have the Butchers Wax, never thought of using that.
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robert ellis
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Re: Precisionbilt Mosquito and Silver Moth Spool Removal

Post by robert ellis »

Ain't it great to see these threads carry on from almost a year ago! :roll:
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