Cork & Balsa spool arbors

[ibtx]

Anyone here make their own cork or balsa spool arbors?
Any info would be welcome.

[john elder]

there are quite a number of new, old stock cork arbors to be found out there, especially if they are from Pflueger reels. They sold these after-market, so they may also work on non-Pflueger reels, but I haven't tried that. Bill Sonnett would likely know this as would Warren and Phil and Don and a couple dozen more folks out there!

I've never seen an after-market balsa spool spacer offered. If given the dimensions needed, I would not be averse to turning a few.

[Bill Sonnett]

If you feel ambitious, check out Lucas on Bass by Jason Lucas as he has a chapter on making your own balsa arbor. I prefer a balsa arbor to cork as nylon casting line tends to squeeze cork out of shape. Even Balsa fails when subjected to the pressures of monofiliment.

[ibtx]

Thanks for the replies John & Bill.
I will check out Lucas on Bass Fishing.

[Kelly L]

So, this is a book, not a website? I tried to find a website, but did not come across one. Is this for allowing yourself to use less dacron backing on a fly reel? I have some cork handles, that I wonder if it might not be used for such a project. Cut them, half them, then glue with rubber cement or something. I have some fly reels that use way too much backing.

If you feel ambitious, check out Lucas on Bass by Jason Lucas as he has a chapter on making your own balsa arbor. I prefer a balsa arbor to cork as nylon casting line tends to squeeze cork out of shape. Even Balsa fails when subjected to the pressures of monofiliment.

[Bill Sonnett]

I'm sorry, I have collected pre-1960 Bass Fishing books for so long that I assumed everyone knew that Jason Lucas (Fishing Editor of Sports Afield 1946-1967) was the author of the book Lucas On Bass Fishing. This book is easy to obtain. Check any used book site such as abebooks.com (currently as I type, 82 copies available starting at $1). Before we go any further however the instructions are for vintage baitcasting reels not fly reels. I have friends who use acrylic yarn to take up space on single action fly reels. I simply use a smaller fly reel. Someone, somewhere may have made a balsa arbor for a fly reel but that would be news to me.

[Kelly L]

Oh, well now I see. I never heard of that book before today. Some of my fly reels barely have room for any backing. Then others have enough room for 4 reels for backing. I think I am gonna try to piece that cork handle, to take up room on the arbor, so less backing will be needed for those super backing needs. Thanks Bill.

[BirdDog]

I went on google books and was able to read the section on making on making cork or balsa arbors. It sounds like a interesting book to own.

Don

[Kelly L]

Thanks Don, just saw it. It was very much like I expected. It is for the same reason as I'd like to make one for fly reels. I just found the book for less than ten dollars, including shipping, and I bought it. What I read seemed interesting, and beneficial.

[Bill Sonnett]

A friend forwarded information to me today about a company (Specialized Balsa LLC) in Loveland Ohio that sells balsa products including 36 inch balsa wood dowells in both 1 inch and 1&1/8 inch diameters. This ought to make the job of making one's own balsa arbors a lot easier. I ordered one of each. Assuming I don't wreck the first 25 attempts, there should be enough there for all the reels I would ever want to fit out. I'll let you know how it works out.

[Digby100]

Hey Kelly

Just saw your comment on backing. Fly lines are generally 90ft but after the tip and first taper it is generally running line. So unless you cast 90ft you can cut down the running line and then put your backing on that. I use small reels such as the 2/3 hardy marquis and can't fit a whole line on so I generally cut them in half and then add some backing if I think I need it.

[Bill Sonnett]

After all this discussion I decided to try making a balsa arbor for this 1939 Coxe 25. The toughest part as I suspected was dishing out the ends to fit the spool (dremel tool worked best here) and getting a hole through the center of the arbor that was somewhere near the middle at both ends. As far as turning it down I experimented a bit and found the easiest tool to use was the square end of a file with a strip of emery cloth wrapped over it. Just make the lightest contact possible with the wood. It may not seem like you are doing much but soon the fine sawdust starts to mount up. Do yourself a favor and remove the levelwind first unless you really like cleaning it up. Reel was held in an old rod handle which in turn was held in a vice. A coat of laquer or varnish will waterproof the wood arbor.The only thing that would have made it easier would to have been able to talk my wife into turning the reel crank for 20 minutes or so!


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[Warren Platt]

Wild Bill,
Nice job on that arbor. If you'd like to improve on it I'd be glad to send you a few of my reels for you to practice on. Plus, it's too bad my last wife ran off as I'm sure the way you charmed her she would have been more that happy to turn the reel handles for you. He, He!

Your ol' pal Warren

[Midway Tommy D]

For any of you out there that have never used, or heard of it, Flood Penetrol http://www.flood.com/paint-additive-solutions/index.do is a super wood and/or cork sealant. It also can be used to easily restore weathered/faded fiberglass to a near new sheen/condition and will protect metals from rust when used appropriately, although it can have a tendency to build up on metal surfaces when put on too thick. It is relatively thin. My best comparison would be to a linseed oil/mineral spirits consistency. It does take a day or 2 to dry thoroughly and a week or so with additional heavier coats.

It is actually an oil based paint additive/smoother but has numerous uses. I make all my fishing rods and have found it puts a nice satin sheen on a dull graphite blank. I don't especially care for gloss, but I sure don't like flat charcoal blanks either. Wiped on in 1 or 2 light coats with a cloth as directed, it will give a really nice finish to a flat rod without adding weight or material buildup. I use slip ring (Tennessee) cork handles on all the rods I build (because they're my favorite for balance) and I put 2 coats on every cork handle to waterproof and protect them. It does a fabulous job because it penetrates the cork rather than applying layers/coats over the top, which would eventually flake or peel. It absolutely helps prevent dirt and oil from soaking into the cork and staining it. It does darken cork or wood surfaces a little, but not really very much, just similar to the "wet look". It also works great for a wood sealant that soaks in instead of laying coats on top. I think it would be great on those balsa or cork spools for sealing without adding bulk. Every cork rod grip I own to use has been treated with it for protection. Most hardware or paint stores carry Penetrol, it's not expensive ($10 or so a quart) and a quart will last for years. I even used it to freshen up the glass my old Bear re-curve bows. They look almost like new now.

If you get a chance to pick some up try it, I think you'll be impressed with its versatility and quality.

Tom