A good set of screwdrivers!

[john elder]

folks, I know we covered this before somewhere deep below, but what is the recommendation for a good brand/source for a quality set of screwdrivers suitable for working on reels? i picked up a really nice Meek #3 the other day...wanted to break it down for lube and clean, but couldn't ease one of the screws out...had to just surface clean as best I could...20 screwdrivers and none of them fit properly! aaaagh!

[mortepa]

WIHA Tools - http://orcaonline.org/images/pixel.gif?740serie.htm

74003 Slotted Power Bit .1181" x .020" $1.46
74009 Slotted Power Bit .1575" x .020" $1.46
74012 Slotted Power Bit .315" x .024" $1.46

These are about the thinnest slotted bits you will be able to find anywhere. I have found that most slotted drivers are .030" or larger. I have looked for a long, long time to find something that works for me. If you want a screwdriver that is "ultra thin" (virtual knife edge), you will likely have to manually grind one yourself. However, the bits listed above will work with all the Pflueger screws I have seen. Even the early more narrow ones.

- Paul

[SWIM JIG]

John, Paul gave you the correct thicness, however if that pesky thing is stuck, We first place a dropof (marvel oil) get that in any walmart or parts store a liitle goes a long way, Now after a few hour soake ,then first turn it light you were going to tighten it , then try to back it out, those screws on a (meek) are very easy to distort. If the light presur dont work, we then usa a dremal tool kind you ingrave with that has a 1/8 in diamitor engraving tip.we then take a pice of 1/8 in soft copper tubing and cut off a 5/8th in pice of it and flatten one end of it, we then slip the open end of the tubing on the dremal tool shaft so its a tight fit, Then we turn the tool on to a medium vibration and apply a corner of the tubing to the screw head, or if a piller is visible vibrate the piller where the screw goes thru, after a few mins. we then first turn screw to tighten then turn it out working it carfuly till its free! hope that thing departs from its foot hold so you can clean the reel! Milt aka SWIM JIG OHIO

[Fred O.]

Hi John,

Paul & Milt are exactly right. That's the first time I have heard of Milt's technique--I'll have to try it out--sounds like a clever idea.

I use the WIHA 260 series screwdrivers--(molybdan, proper sizes, good control on expensive or delicate reels) Made in Germany. They are not expensive if you consider that they have worked on hundreds of reels without ever ruining a screw or wearing out the blade.

Another real good screwdriver that I use is the Draper Super-SNCM series. I think they are also made in Germany. Very thin and durable blades.

For a power screwdriver, believe it or not, I use a Dewalt DW920 (Variable speed, adjustable clutch, lots of torque, great battery life)
Saves a ton of time when working on larger salt water reels with a lot of screws. And will also adjust to the smallest reel easily with the right blades. I have tried others--none come close.

Like you, I have lots and lots of screwdrivers of good or average quality--however, I end up using the above tools for 95% of all reel jobs.

These are the ones that work for me. I will look forward to hearing what others use. Best Regards, Fred

[reelsmith.]

What you need is a BF Meek & Sons Fishing Reel Screwdriver & Oiler. The blade on these is EXACTLY tapered to the heads of Meek screws and they work like a charm! Much more fun to use and look at too... but a bit tougher to find and a tad more expensive than modern screwdrivers.

Dean.

[john elder]

Thanks, guyz...knew i could count on you to have the answer...re the Meek wrench/driver...wish I could find one! However, that tool must be different than every other I've had in my hands...the ones that are supposed to be made for the purpose seem often to do the crappiest job! Okay, off to Google to see where I can buy all those...and thanks for the strategy tips, Milt...as soon as i get the right tool, I have a couple screws in mind to test drive your methods!

[Brian F.]

Don't forget to post those great before and after photos!

[Don Champion]

In a pinch use a feeler gauge blade and a pair of pliers. Just enough to loosen it then use a jewelers screwdriver. I've had to use them down to .014" and that was a snug fit!

[cws/carl schultz]

the best ones to use are the ones made for the particular model thats why some people collect the wrenches they work

[drexelantiques]

I have a really good set of
English gunsmiths screwdrivers has about 20 in it. The difference between these and regular screwdrivers is that the blades are not tapered, meaning they engage the whole face of the cut in the screw head, meaning they put less pressure on one particular part of the head, less likely to break the head, and you can apply more useful pressure.

Next I have a set of jewelers screwdrivers for tiny screws, while these do taper some, the bottom parts do not.

I then have some cheap tapered screwdrivers I keep around to grind the blades to fit screws where I do not have screwdrivers to fit. Tapered screwdrivers are very bad for brass or bronze screws.

[Reelman2]

I have tried Bolt Buster and others but the Blaster PB works better than any I have found. Sparay it on the head area of the screw and on the opposite side of the plate where it screws into. Let sit for about 20-30 minutes and you should be able to loosen the screws of most reels. Blaster can be purchased at Walmart or Big Lots.

Bill

[Nemo]

I have found gun smiting tools to be the best tools to work on reels. I have bought many tools from "Brownells" over the years. I recently had to remove a sleeve and gear assy from a Penn Long Beach. My Brownells pin punches were invaluable.

[Ed Clark]

I know in earlier posts that some people liked Chapman screwdrivers. I don't own any so cannot comment on them. Their website is www.chapmanmfg.com Looks like the 9600 kit would be a nice set for anyone.

Ed

[hurdpete]

John:

The biggest problem I've had on difficult/stubborn screws has been the taper in almost all screwdriver blades - a driver with a parallel tip is almost a must to avoid chewing up the slots. Drexelantiques' tip about gunsmithing screwdrivers is great , but the cheap way to do this is with a worn out screwdriver (round shank), which I have in some abundance. Rather than grind the tip, which has a tendency to soften the steel if you get it too hot, I cut the worn tip off with a hacksaw and then use a file to cut the blade width and thickness I need. I find it easier to control the cut this way, and you can EXACTLY match the particular slot size you need - I had the same problem with Hurd SuperCasters, and it worked great, even with steel screws in aluminum alloy. If you don't have any that you want to sacrifice, a cheap #1 Phillips from WallyWorld or the hardware store only costs a buck or so, and will fit the majority of screws found in fresh-water reels. To use in a power screwdriver, just cut the blade to the length you want, and file 3 flats on the sides to fit your chuck (this allows you to make driver blades longer than average, which can be very useful in some situations).

[Outtie61]

My personal favourite is a screwdriver combination that was sold by Mitchell many years ago. It had bearings in the tops and was very comfortable and very fast.

Outtie61

[Brian F.]

Anyone dig up Reelgeezer's post on the set of screwdrivers he wrote about in the Reel News some time back? I know you've reminded us many times, geeze, but "search" and, of course, my memory is failing me once again. That was a pretty neat little set.

[Reel Geezer]

Brian, that set of screwdrivers was the ones Ed mentions above - Chapmans. I have used them for many years. Rather than having to buy screwdrivers to alter to fit individual screw slots you can just purchase the tips and file or grind them to the proper size. The kit also comes with a racheting wrench type handle that provides tremendous leverage, if ever needed.
Ed provided the link to their web site.

[Brian F.]

Thanks Geeze, that gunsmith kit #9600 does look handy. Maybe I'll finally order one! Should I be considering anything else to add to that kit?

[piscesman]

I have had the Chapman #9600 for several years. The tips look funny at first but when you remove that stubborn screw without any damage the initial shock wears off. Tons of tips come with the kit too. They have an order sheet in case you need to buy extras. When I first received mine the handle was severley distorted. I made the 1-800 call and they paid shipping both ways. Great customer service too.
Kim