The wet look
- Paul M
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The wet look
I have been working on my technique of using automotive papers to bring out the wet black look on old rubber reels at the end of the cleaning process. It is a bit heavy handed but I am happy with the results and really like the look much better than faded brown. No oil is used at all in the polishing process and the small reels pictured are dry as a bone.
I believe the reel on the left is an old British reel eg Heaton. The 2 on the right are US made. One is a 4 brothers Delite and the other has a square edge to the foot so something like a Montague.
I believe the reel on the left is an old British reel eg Heaton. The 2 on the right are US made. One is a 4 brothers Delite and the other has a square edge to the foot so something like a Montague.
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Re: The wet look
Going by what I can see of the handle knob and the screw holding the handle on I believe the one on the right may be a Pflueger also.
Re: The wet look
using automotive papers???????? can you expound on that please?
- john elder
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Re: The wet look
Al, check this thread re papers:
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=16338
A BIG WORD OF CAUTION!...note that many of these rubber faced reels have stamped names on them that are barely hanging on, so if you use emery or sandpaper to remove oxidation, there is a very good chance you'll take the writing with it. Given the choice between a bit of brown and losing the name, particularly on a JVH fly reel, you probably best choose the brown!
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=16338
A BIG WORD OF CAUTION!...note that many of these rubber faced reels have stamped names on them that are barely hanging on, so if you use emery or sandpaper to remove oxidation, there is a very good chance you'll take the writing with it. Given the choice between a bit of brown and losing the name, particularly on a JVH fly reel, you probably best choose the brown!
- Paul M
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Re: The wet look
Al:
I recently realized that automotive wet/dry sandpapers can be used to bring out the original deep black color of hard rubber used in vintage/antique reels. I was looking for a way to "fix" the light brown rubber problem caused by cleaning old reels (eg effects after soaking in water/vinegar). I caution up front that it is an aggressive process and even though it will remove a thin layer, it can/will remove a faint maker name imprint so needs to be done with care and consideration.
The use of these papers for another purpose was suggested to me by Don Champion last summer when I was complaining about the coppery look on brass reels after the water/vinegar soak. Then a few weeks ago John Elder posted about his experiments showing water was the culprit in the cleaning process making old (UV exposed?) rubber go light and dull brown. Don Champion also wrote about using these products on his article Straightforward Approaches to Some Common Reel Repairs. But he discussed that in the context of removing excess glue as a result of repairing cracked rubber. Putting it all together I tried the same process Don suggested for brass polishing and find it reveals the deep black look in old rubber and can also be used to get to that bowling ball gleam if you want.
I quote Don's directions used for brass that I also use for rubber, followed by pics showing the brown coming off a recently cleaned EVH reel:
I recently realized that automotive wet/dry sandpapers can be used to bring out the original deep black color of hard rubber used in vintage/antique reels. I was looking for a way to "fix" the light brown rubber problem caused by cleaning old reels (eg effects after soaking in water/vinegar). I caution up front that it is an aggressive process and even though it will remove a thin layer, it can/will remove a faint maker name imprint so needs to be done with care and consideration.
The use of these papers for another purpose was suggested to me by Don Champion last summer when I was complaining about the coppery look on brass reels after the water/vinegar soak. Then a few weeks ago John Elder posted about his experiments showing water was the culprit in the cleaning process making old (UV exposed?) rubber go light and dull brown. Don Champion also wrote about using these products on his article Straightforward Approaches to Some Common Reel Repairs. But he discussed that in the context of removing excess glue as a result of repairing cracked rubber. Putting it all together I tried the same process Don suggested for brass polishing and find it reveals the deep black look in old rubber and can also be used to get to that bowling ball gleam if you want.
I quote Don's directions used for brass that I also use for rubber, followed by pics showing the brown coming off a recently cleaned EVH reel:
Don Champion wrote:A faster way that sounds more drastic than it is would be to use wet or dry abrasive paper and use it wet. Start with 400 grit, then 600 grit, 800 grit and last 1200 grit. You can get a couple of sheets of each at an auto body shop. Then a fine polish to finish it off. Work it with a clockwise motion and keep it wet. You won't remove much material, probably about .001" or about 1/4 of the thickness of a piece of newspaper. Any round parts such as the pillars and the edges of the end plates could be polished in a straight line around the outside. Try it on another piece of brass first. DO NOT use this on nickel plated parts.
Re: The wet look
Ok, thanks for the explanation. I don't intend to use any wet or dry unless it were in the 3-4000 grit. We used to polish A/C wind screens with 10,000 and finer but I have yet to use it on a reel. What I now use on black rubber is GoJo that has a very pumice in it. I get it at Home depot and apply and with a medium soft Felt pad. It won't scratch and makes hard rubber look great.
Just my 2 cents
Just my 2 cents
Re: The wet look
I do not know what is acceptable practice in the restoration of fishing reels so please take this comment as one coming from one with little to no knowledge of the hobby.
I do have a lot of experience in the restoration of antique radios. One type of radio that has always been an issue for me are the bakelite sets that are faded due to sun exposure or exposure to elements in general. i have tried wet sanding with 800 grit paper trying to get a shine back and it just doesn't work. I always liked the look of the bakelite when it was wet though. As soon as it dried it would go back to the dead dull look.
One thing that I found regarding these bakelite cabinets though was the use of automotive clear coat. You can purchase it in small spray cans at automotive stores. A light coat on the cabinet will dry to the touch but when it dries the bakelite would keep that wet look. So again I know I am opening myself up to criticism for even suggesting it. As I said, I am new to the hobby and am thus far just sticking with the finish I am finding on the reels that i have acquired....but maybe try this on a reel of little value and see if you like the result.
I do have a lot of experience in the restoration of antique radios. One type of radio that has always been an issue for me are the bakelite sets that are faded due to sun exposure or exposure to elements in general. i have tried wet sanding with 800 grit paper trying to get a shine back and it just doesn't work. I always liked the look of the bakelite when it was wet though. As soon as it dried it would go back to the dead dull look.
One thing that I found regarding these bakelite cabinets though was the use of automotive clear coat. You can purchase it in small spray cans at automotive stores. A light coat on the cabinet will dry to the touch but when it dries the bakelite would keep that wet look. So again I know I am opening myself up to criticism for even suggesting it. As I said, I am new to the hobby and am thus far just sticking with the finish I am finding on the reels that i have acquired....but maybe try this on a reel of little value and see if you like the result.
Re: The wet look
I've seen reels with a clear coat but would not do it myself or really want one in my collection. A friend of mine used to have the person cleaning his reels apply it. They look nice but you can tell there is a clear coat on it. I think he thought of it as a preservative measure since materials oxidize and he preferred the highly polished appearance for his collection.
- Paul M
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Re: The wet look
Yeah. I tried that approach when I first heard about using these wet/dry papers. I was trying to hold back a bit to avoid damaging the surface but that does not work for this application. You have to fully commit and go "all the way", or don't bother. I found that starting with 400 and going over the whole surface several times, rinsing in between until the darker shade appears (when dry), works best to get started and then a once over with each of the higher number grits in sequence without skipping any, rinsing in between, is the method that works to get both the darkness back and the polish.mtcm76 wrote:... i have tried wet sanding with 800 grit paper trying to get a shine back and it just doesn't work. ...
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Re: The wet look
Something that MAY work but I have never tried would be lapping compound available from most industrial supply houses. It come in various grit sizes and someone would have to experiment with the various grits to find the best one or two to use. They usually have an oil or grease base for the grit.
- jimbofish
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Re: The wet look
IMHO it should work fine. Same idea, just a different format to carry the grit. An auto paint shop may have appropriate grades of compounds available also.Don Champion wrote:Something that MAY work but I have never tried would be lapping compound available from most industrial supply houses.
I've never done a hard rubber reel, but I've done various plastic parts from reels and other items using pre-made rubbing and polishing compounds from an auto parts store. You just need to know where they fall grit-wise and follow the progression. Meguire's makes a three step Crystal System that works for most of my needs. I save the sandpaper sequence for metals.
Re: The wet look
I would think that the fine grit of pumice would be more forgiving than lapping compound of any grit. Pumice can be had in grit as fine as dust. I swear by pumice as it leaves a very nice wet look and it comes in many forms. My favorite is the GoJo hand cleaner. It cleans and polishes all at once. LOL sounds kinda like a commercial..