How to fix a split bone handle

Richard Lodge · Post by **Richard Lodge** » Wed Jul 01, 2009 4:52 pm

I have an old British-made brass multiplier that still has the bone handle grasp, but it's split. When I squeeze it together, the grasp looks like it's going to split on the other side. Logic says the material has shrunk over the decades (I'm pegging this reel at around 1850 or maybe a little earlier). Is there any way to fix this, short of pulling the bone grasp off and somehow reducing the diameter of the metal shaft that it slides onto? I can take photos if someone else can help me in posting them tonight. tnx. Richard

Post by **john elder** » Wed Jul 01, 2009 8:33 pm

Richard...send me pics and i'll post them. I think I'd try something like you might see on this thread and see what happens:

http://www.google.com/search?client=saf ... 8&oe=UTF-8

you can bring back cork and to some degree, wood, if you rehydrate appropriately. I don't think you have anything to lose by giving it a try and see if it closes the gap. I'd soak a piec of paper towel or sponge in water...wrap it around the grasp, then wrap that with some water-impermeable plastic and leave it for 48 hours or so, then check and see how things look. If it works, then you can lube the shaft with oil to prevent rust and likely be able to seal the bone to prevent/retard dehydration. You might even be able to use a razor blade to slip in some Gorilla glue in the break, which should set up and keep it from opening again.

Of course, it would be nice to have some old handle to practice on, but I think the rehydration should be fine.

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Thu Jul 02, 2009 4:52 am

Richard's reel:

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Thu Jul 02, 2009 5:36 am

Here's a paper on some factors affecting bone elasticity:
http://www.pubmedcentral.nih.gov/pagere ... dex=1#page

Some considerations:
Let's assume you manage to restore enough elasticity (by following John's suggestions or maybe heating the grasp in saline) so that you can squeeze those broken surfaces together.
How do you make sure that the pin's diameter hasn't been increased by corrosion, and, if it has, how do you restore the pin? What are the odds the grasp will be able to rotate even if the crack can be closed?
How can you be sure that dehydration doesn't recur? Can you cement the surfaces before dehydration begins again? Can you seal the grasp before it begins to dehydrate again? If the process is unsuccessful, will you have damaged the grasp further? If the repair works, but dehydration recurs, could additional cracks develop?

I have no idea if these small grasps can be adequately "restored" this way, but you probably should experiment on something other than a Haywood.

Additional info:
http://nautarch.tamu.edu/class/anth605/File3.htm
http://cool-palimpsest.stanford.edu/byf ... /0990.html

Post by **john elder** » Thu Jul 02, 2009 8:23 am

Steve raises some very good points and after seeing the overall condition or the reel...especially those screws...I would have to go along with leaving it as is. I'd still like to find some old handles to play with and see if they could be brought back, however!

Richard Lodge · Post by **Richard Lodge** » Sun Jul 05, 2009 6:07 pm

Thanks for the great info and suggestions, guys. Steve, I agree with you that if I were to try John's suggestion I would not use a Haywood reel. Probably something like a Kopf or Malleson.

For now, I think I'll leave the knob as it is and try not to drop the reel. But I love hearing some very creative thinking that comes out when a reel collectors is seeking help with a problem. Thanks!

Jason · Post by **Jason** » Wed Jul 08, 2009 2:18 am

I'm not a big fan of replacement parts but that's another option. Here's a knob that I started to make out of fossilized mammoth ivory for a contemporary reel. I'm not sure how durable this material is. I gave up on this piece when I realized it had a hairline crack in it. This picture makes it look yellow but its actually looked pretty nice.

I also don't know how to press a new pin in. I guess I need to play around and make a tapered pin and give it a try. If anyone has experience doing this, I'd appreciate some advice.

el Lawrence · Post by **el Lawrence** » Tue Dec 15, 2009 3:36 pm

If you were going to re-hydrate it may require more than water to do the trick. I researched this a few years back when an Ivory handle fell apart on me. Ivory has natural striations and also tends to loose moisture over years... (though I would imagine the Mammoth Ivory is as dry as it might get). Anyway I don't know if this would work for bone but my research came up with rehydrating Ivory by use of Knox Gelatin in which you cooked (very low temp) the item and let it cool to re-join or plump Ivory that had layers that were opening up. My knob was beyond this so I never tried it. I have however tried to moisturize some knobs by applying Renaissance wax to seal the surface and impart some small amounts of moisture. Not sure what I would do with a VERY valuable reel like this cracked so far open... the corrosion under the knob seems to be a problem. Maybe a clean brush to nudge some of it out?
I don't recommend the Gorilla Glue... it expands and you can't control it precisely. I would pick a water based glue that you can un-do what you fix if you need to and if you resort to glue. OR if you know and are on good terms with a DDS that might work with some of the new dental materials that they do bonding with. He/she might have some tips on cleaning and filling the gap and have it match the material as near as possible... save the knob and not have to cut or alter the post. I know they have some materials that need special light to "cure" so they stay soft and workable until you are happy with the shape. Less is more here, go slow and don't try to pack the gap too full. Just stop further degeneration.

How to fix a split bone handle

How to fix a split bone handle

Good suggestions but I'll leave 'er be

Rehydration and Ivory