Pflueger 1492 Click Tongues

[seablues47]

I have an older Pflueger 1492DA that the click tongues are so worn that it is almost a free spool reel. Has anyone tried replacing or rotating the tongues? No one sells the tongues, so I would have to hand fabricate new ones which isn't a problem for me.

[john elder]

Hi, are you referring to the triangle-shaped pawlthat is held by the spring against the gear? If so, then its likely they can be found or made using a pawl from another brand reel. Alternatively, your pawl may just need to be turned so that another point makes contact with the gear. Do you have a photo to show what you mean!

[Don Champion]

A photo would definitely help. I have a bunch of those but some are different from others. The hard part is putting a new one in if it is riveted. Most of the time I have to remove the old button shaft and put in a new one which requires a metal machining lathe.

[seablues47]

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Click Tongue (Pawl)

I'm thinking that the stop pin to the left of the pawl could be driven out, the pawl rotated and the pin driven back in. The pin would only have to be driven out enough to allow the pawl to rotate. I would have to be careful not to bend or peen the pin and not damage the reel body.

[Don Champion]

Perhaps Dick Janek has one of those pawls for sale. From what I'm seeing you should have a pawl on each side. Dual pawls. I would think if you removed the springs you could place a piece of pipe, a socket wrench or something of that nature over the pawl and using a punch, drive the rivet for the pawl out of the button. Or it screws out. Whichever. Then it would be a simple job to reverse the procedure.

[john elder]

I believe the posts that hold the pawl in place are just press-fit, so as Don says, if you can put a socket around the pawl and post, then apply pressure from the other side, you can get that pin out and free the pawl. I would get/make a cut-off nail or some such that will fit just over the end of the rivet (on the outside of the back plate, not on the pawl side), then try to apply pressure on that nail and the socket in a vise or using a C clamp. You could also just give the nail some sharp raps with the socket sitting on a hard surface, but I like the steady pressure of a vise as first choice.

This may be as clear as mud, but if you think about the mission, you'll see what I mean. This is the method I also use to remove the handle grasp from the spool when I get one that is thrashed.

[john elder]

One other thought....it looks like that pawl has been rotated in the past to bring the one in use around to replace the worn one....that one has evidently been filed down to allow it to swing past the post. So, if you cut the one now in contact down to where you can slip past that post without removing it, you can bring the one good corner out to act as a pawl.

[Tightlines666]

I typically use an arbor press, and a proper sized die, and pin to slowly and evenly press it out. Using proper sized hardened punch, and socket in a clamp or vise might work for you. Just take your time.

[john elder]

Good idea!...one good way to do same is to use a drill press to give the leverage. You can mount the proper sized drill bit backwards in the chuck and use that to push the pin out. Just don't let the drill bit protrude too far out of the chuck or it will be easy to snap it off!

[seablues47]

Thank you.
I'll try the drill press since I have one. If the pawl pins won't move, I'll cut down the worn pawl enough to pass the retaining pin. I'll post the results.
There's other 1492s for sale on Ebay, but you don't know if your buying the same problem and I'd like to keep fishing with this one.

[seablues47]

The small pin used to stop the pawl was very easy to press down to the frame level making it easy to rotate the pawl and press the pin back into place. Guess Pflueger planned it that way.
Thanks again for the responses.

[john elder]

clapclapclapclap! Good show...much better solution to the problem than knocking out the pin holding the pawl. But if you run into a pawl stash, I'm sure you can use the same method for the main post.

Show us your catch!! With that kinda pawl wear, you must be hooking into some serious fish!

[Wayne B.]

Why are the pins there? I don't see any purpose other than making the pawl difficult to rotate. I must be missing something.

[seablues47]

The pins are there to keep the pawls from rotating past the clicker gear.

[seablues47]

Unfortunately I'm not hooking into any fish right now. Moved to Biloxi in late May with an existing back problem and had surgery in September. Still doing rehab for the back and can't fish yet. Been spending my time getting my rods and reels in top shape for the days to come.
Hopefully I'll start posting pics of reds, trout and largemouth soon.

[Wayne B.]

The pins are there to keep the pawls from rotating past the clicker gear.

The gear on the spool is not large enough to push a new, full-size pawl tooth anywhere near the pin. Still confused.

[Ernesto B]

I had the same issue as the OP. Used the drill press like an arbor press (thanks john elder) to push the little pin out of the way, rotated the pawl to put a fresh tooth into play, pushed pin back into place and now clicks good as new. This is the Korean made version--pawls seem to be made of pot metal.... I'm not sure why the pin is there in the first place, might just be there to limit the number of was the system could get screwed up.