Reel values

mike c · Post by **mike c** » Thu Aug 25, 2005 2:23 pm

I've been thinking about collecting the small cheap brass and plated reels,Atllas, Portage, Meek, ect. also the rod and reel combos, like the gentleman jim I do have a pretty nice hurd right now and was wondering what to expect to pay for these new in the box and how hard is it to find them that way. Mike

el Lawrence · Post by **el Lawrence** » Thu Aug 25, 2005 4:17 pm

Cheap may be a misnomer here... Nifty little reels those Portage... the Seminole and Atlas (and other) models minty in box can hit the three figures easy. They do come up boxed now and then and usually hit into the 200. and UP (and up) mark depending on condition of both reel and box, size and model of reel, etc. Many of the Pflueger collectors dabble in this area too so they are fairly competitively collected. The boxes are mostly what will drive the price up here... UNBOXED these reels are very reasonable for EX cond. reels...

The Hurd may be a bit easier (not boxed, I have not heard of a boxed Hurd, someone else may know...) as there are a few fewer folks after them...( I sold three or four at ORCA Nationals). Interesting and unusual rod/reels... value depends on handles and of course condition... prices usually start in the 100. - 150. to start with and go up from there. Some models much higher...

All of the brands and models you mention are a GREAT place to start collecting, good quality stuff... Fairly reasonable prices and ones you might find often enough to make it fun and interesting...without breaking the bank right off.

Good luck!

Teal · Post by **Teal** » Thu Aug 25, 2005 4:33 pm

As El noted, cheap is indeed a misnomer as far as in box reels go, but you can still get some pretty good deals. Yesterday in fact an Atlas in a nice box went for $83.68 (#7176998842) which I thought was a pretty good deal. And also recently a set of four (one each 40-60-80-100 yard) Atlas Portage reels went for the paltry price of $50 (7174840647). So you can start building a good collection for not too much green.

I would definitely recommend begging, borrowing, or stealing a copy of the recent ORCA best seller "Pflueger Pfacts" as it has articles by Bob Miller on 4 Brothers and Portage and Craig Miller on E.A. Pflueger trade reels that are an absolute must if you are going to start collecting these. The E.A. Pflueger trade reels are unmarked but Craig's article will show you what to look for (just ask Phil White).

Just getting a single example of all the 4 Brothers trade reels would be a bit of a tough task, but would make a great display.

Good luck!

Dr. Todd E.A. Larson

Post by **Brian F.** » Thu Aug 25, 2005 4:42 pm

Mike,

Both El and Todd are spot on with better information you'll find in any book. I like your avatar image - looks like the kind of reels I end up collecting, even though I don't mean too!

By the way, is anybody else getting Mike's avatar as a huge image? I know there's a limit but it seems inconsistent at times. Will check with Paul.

el Lawrence · Post by **el Lawrence** » Thu Aug 25, 2005 4:49 pm

Yeah MELON sized (sorta depends on your monitor)... and all the type on each post after that is flushed over to the far right in a skinny little column...

mike c · Post by **mike c** » Thu Aug 25, 2005 4:53 pm

Thanks for the help guy's, not sure why my picture is so large, I went back and put it up smaller but it still looks the same. Mike

Dale Noll · Post by **Dale Noll** » Thu Aug 25, 2005 4:53 pm

Also getting wide image. About 7" wide.

Dale.

Post by **john elder** » Thu Aug 25, 2005 5:14 pm

well, Mike, now you can brag about the size of your Avatar

Whataman!

mortepa · Post by **mortepa** » Fri Aug 26, 2005 2:28 am

I downsized Mike C's avatar to the standard 100x100 pixel size that the site should be limited to. I am not sure why it had this problem...but we are all good now! Happy posting!

Paul

Pete Appel(hurdpete) · Fri Aug 26, 2005 5:47 pm

Mike: I posted a reply to your question, but I guess I must have mashed the wrong button and sent it to cyberoblivion! Anyway, elLawrence is correct- the Hurd Supercaster was not supplied in a box- it was in a red and black vinyl case with a steel stiffening rod. The cases have all shrunk over time, so all the stiffener rods now stick out of the end of the case by about 1/2" - don't try to make it fit back in- you'll more than likely split or puncture the case and get a chance to stomp and cuss and throw things when you do

Also, there is a vinyl tab at the top of the zipper which tends to dry out and be very brittle- doesn't affect the operation of the zipper but might slightly reduce the value of the case.

I've been tracking Hurds on EBay since this spring, and prices have softened somewhat in the last 6 weeks- an average, intact combo is bringing $125-$150- this spring a really nice combo with 2 rods (both with original wraps), case and lotsa literature brought about $215. There are a lot of average units out there- almost all the reels will have a moderate amount of scratches/small dings, etc. from use or closet wear, most desperately need a complete teardown/cleaning, and many of the rods do not have original wrappings (original is yellow next to guide, red outside, split 50/50). Most combos do not have cases. Be sure to ask if the combo has ALL the parts (especially the tailplate bearing cap)- spares are virtually impossible to find short of cannibalizing another reel.

There are at least four different manufacturing variations of this combo, not including the Caster, so they're interesting to tear down and compare. They're very nicely made, and most are fishable when properly cleaned and adjusted. I've had quite a few of them all the way down to the frame, so if you need help in getting one apart and back together, I'll be happy to give you a hand. The ORCA library has a parts diagram (#344) that will be a big help on some of the units.

Best of luck,

Pete Appel

SWIM JIG · Post by **SWIM JIG** » Sat Aug 27, 2005 11:17 am

cool-thumb yay-banana USA Mike , I may as well muddy the waters! (when you buy a HURD, make certain all the external parts are on it as to my knowledge there are few if any laying around( last ones I got were from Fred Kerr several years ago, If the take up adj on either side is missing, deduct at least $10.00 off the price, as yes one can be made to fit from a bearing cap , however its not correct! next make certain the level wind oppertes freely, if the pawl is bad, then that too must be fabricated, deduct another $10.00, if the push button drag is worn out, that can be made resonably from a Ocean City part, deduct $7.50, If the spool is lose, this isnt too bad as the spool is 3 parts, generaly all you need to do is tighten up the nut on the left side of the spool! Note! you have to take the spool apart to get it out of the reel housing! handles, several different types were used, generaly knobs were of alluminum metal, screws, some were odd ball size, almost camera type threads( My thoughts were they bought war surplus parts from Kodak and ansco) Some of the handles also had plastic knobs, again there is NO set patern to these things!The wooden handles were most likly made by Harington & richardson gun works, these can be recheckerd with checkering tools or recut as some say! As for the shrunkin Plastic handles, nothing can be done except replace, a very hard find, deduct price accordingly, I take away $30.00. To remove the rod from the handle ( most are stuck) and these are made out of easly bendable metal, (suposed to be surplus military radio antenas) if we cant get them out by a easy pull( Note they come stright out! as the grove is stright, and the raised part on the rod is a perfect fit) We take a peace of pure leather off a belt or shoe part, place it in a vice with the rod clamped firmly however not squesing it, and use a light jerking pull( you can place oil down around and in the shaft let stand overnight, (proceed with this jerking untill the rod comes out of the reel body. (Donot atempt to take the cap off the front of the rod! It will destort! I trust this helps you in your findiings! Also there is no method of serial # ranges, they will drive you to change your collecting habbits! Your Ohio Conection on lake ERIE COL. M. lorens aka SWIM JIG

Reel Geezer · Post by **Reel Geezer** » Sat Aug 27, 2005 7:53 pm

Milt & Mike: If a bearing cap is missing on that reel I'd take off 50% of the value, not $10. You said they are impossible to find, and who wants a fabricated one? In my opinion reels with missing end caps should never be purchased, unless the reel is something you want to study or is extremely rare.

SWIM JIG · Post by **SWIM JIG** » Sat Aug 27, 2005 10:43 pm

USA Phil, you are correct on that , however I have made several so the rod-reel combanation can be usable again, Should we not havw seoparate prices for those that can be made usable and those that will end up on or in a colection to be displayed? It has always had my thoughts as to why a true replacement part wouldnt be acceptable! Example on the opisite end of colectiing is antique auto engine parts, Ie Gasgets, rings, rod bearings etc, These are as I understand do not take poins off when the owner states these parts are new and in some cases saves the old ones. Could we, as Colectors of reels for mechnical parts only use replacement parts? I donot mean a refinish or cosmetic re-do just that is needed to make it functionable? This may be a area that needs some serious thinking , As for re-plating, welding siver soldering, and other serious remakes then I say NO GO! However, if factory furnished parts that are still in as new condition, then would that not be the same as original? As for the HURDs to my knowledge No new parts exist, or I havent found any yet! Posibly we can make issue of it on our site , in The ORCA MAG, and at the Nationals! Your advise is always taken with wisdom! Your Ohio conection On Lake ERIE Col. M. Lorens aka SWIM JIG

Reel values

Reel values

Good Idea

reels

reel values

Parts are a wee bit hard to find!

your most likly correct